Hawthorn, Crataegus laevigata

25-year development of a Shohin bonsai.

The Hawthorn is one of my favorite trees in my bonsai collection. Not only because it was one of the first trees I tried to make at the start of my bonsai days, but also because it is beautiful specie. It is made from a very simple garden nursery material bought in a plastic pot for little money, cut back, and then started from scratch. 

The old bark it presents today is the result of patiently growing the tree in a container, and slowly letting it age and mature.

For deciduous trees and shrubs, it is a good method of growing a Shohin-sized bonsai, cutting it back and letting it grow new branches. It is only difficult if you lack patience. Because it takes a long time before you get a good ramification. With evergreen coniferous trees, branches can be arranged and a semi-fast result will be possible if there are enough branches to work with.

Deciduous trees demand branches are let to grow first, thicken up, cut back, and then the next growth will extend, being cut back again, and so it continues. Slowly developing a zig-zag pattern of branches.

But boy it is rewarding when the magic slowly happens and your patient work pays off. 

Especially the rough patterned bark is beautiful on old trees, but they do have a habit of shedding pieces of bark over time. Either accept that and wait for new bark to develop, which takes years, or glue it back on so it stays in place. 

I use a not too shallow pot with a bit of depth because the Hawthorn dislikes growing in a flat pot. They need a free draining soil and I use a simple mixture of 80 % Akadama and 20% pumice for shohin. This secures it doesn’t dry out too fast and still keeps a healthy soil structure with a good amount of oxygen present.

The old hawthorn here is repotted every 3 – 4 years. It grows slowly now, because roots fill in, and the tree responds to that. A dense root ramification is often reflected in the branch structure. When roots have well ramified the branches mirrors that in combination with proper pruning.

The first spring growth I always let extend and mature, before I cut back. This first extended growth is important to keep a high sap flow and secure energy and growth hormones are dragged up in all branches. Cutting early in spring when growth is still soft will weaken the tree, and make back budding weaker. Therefore it’s important to leave the scissors on the table until that first growth has developed and begins to change color from light green to a darker green. 

For the rest of the season, new growth can be cut earlier. But spring growth is important to grow to build up the strength of the tree.

The Hawthorn is a spring flowering tree producing white or red flowers. Flowers is the pinnacle of this species without a doubt. Some years they tend to flower more than others. Feeding the right way will help add more flowers. 

Feed the year before flowering like this: From mid-summer until leaves begin to fade in autumn use an organic fertilizer with a higher amount of potassium that usually induces flower production. You need to think ahead and feed the season before because this is when the flowers are developed, overwintering as buds, and then open in spring.

The hawthorn is a hardy specimen tolerating hard pruning. But wire only younger branches because old branches are stiff and easily risk breaking. It produces a wonderful rough bark as it ages. 

Common Hawthorn, Crataegus monogyna is a rounded, deciduous tree with a large number of thorns and broadly ovate to diamond-shaped leaves. White flowers up to 1.5cm across are born in late spring and later develop a glossy, dark red fruit. Native to Europe. 

Crataegus laevigata, Midland Hawthorn develops double dark-pink flowers. Not as vigorous as the Common Hawthorn but is a beautiful piece for bonsai.

The old flaky bark is easily damaged, so take care when handling it.

Water and feeding: Moderate watering. Should not be allowed to dry out completely. Feed well during the growing season after flowers have set.

Soil and repotting: Tolerant of different soil mixtures but keep it well draining. Repot early spring before leaf and flower buds swell.

Light: Tolerates full sun, but take care during mid-summer and place the tree in semi-shade during the hottest hours, and protect it from the evening sun. Leaf burn might occur on hot days in direct sunlight in the middle of the day during summer.

Pruning and wiring: Prune in late winter and trim during the growing season. Take care not to remove flower buds developed from mid-summer through autumn. Will rarely back bud on aged wood but t happens sometimes.

Dormancy: Resists freezing well, but Shohin bonsai add some extra protection, because of the small amount of finer roots.