albek
Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Yes, temperatures are very low here as well. Raining cats and dogs today as well. Again. 😅
Hopefully we get some more sun and warm weather soon.
Hi Geoff
Thats correct. The best time to repot Chjoubai is in the autumn, but everything is possible with some caretaking. If you don’t mind, let us have it up on Thursday at this month’s Zoom meeting.Best regards Morten
Brave decision Geoff. Sometimes we just have to go the extra mile to get something different when we are stuck with an image that isn’t appealing to us. Also to separate the tree from the crowd a different perspective is important. I look forward to seeing the development of this one. It has a nice natural appeal and I can see the future in this. (Y)
Sounds like a great start with many species needing different kinds of attention too.
Your winters seem equal to what we have around here nowadays and therefore I can share what we do here to keep trees well overwintered.
when it gets cold in shorter periods like one week native and adapted trees will have no problems. Only trees like Gingko and Trident maples that hate cold roots will benefit from being inside a polytunnel or equal to have higher root temperatures during winter.
Pines hate to be wet, so place these under some sort of shelter in wet periods no matter how well draining the soil is. It can be a simple roof or any other arrangement keeping them from being soaked in rainy periods. Japanese red and black pines are especially prone to root rot if too wet over time. Temperature wise they love the cold, especially P. mugo.
By the way, avoid pine bark in the substrate as it breaks down quickly and ruins the overall soil structure, so it isn’t good at all for bonsai. Replace it with Pumice or lava in spring or the next time you need to repot.
It might demand moving trees around in between so they get the best possible situation. It sounds like you have covered the main aspects and concerns fine. You can bring in most trees in an open polytunnel, pop-up or stationary greenhouse where airflow is keeping fungi out, and then close it if it gets cold for some days. But open the doors as soon as it isn’t to circulate air.
Also, take care of cold winds, and winds in general if the soil is frozen. Roots can’t take up water when the soil is frozen, and winds will dry them out fast.
You should be covered if you check your trees regularly and also be sure to water if they dry out. Even when it’s cold, but not freezing, the water will evaporate from the soil, and more trees are damaged during winter from drought rather than cold (as long as the species cope with freezing). Water sparsely though avoiding trees soaking.
Most trees here stay outside but move in in cold or wet periods in a shelter. We get very wet periods and this is as damaging for the roots as freezing. Hope this helps, but be sure to ask again if there is something not clear. I will take the subject up in the next members’ Live Q&A on Thursday.
I think it was somewhere on the line out there. I also noticed a few fallouts, but everything seems fine in the recording. 🙂
Cleaning up the underside of the foliage pads and cutting out extensive growth will help form the foliage pads and define the tree better. There is a tutorial about that on this page. Scroll down to the video about creating foliage pads. Fanning out some of the branches might also be a good idea, but difficult to advice in detail from a photo.
Cleaning up the underside of the foliage pads and cutting out extensive growth will help form the foliage pads and define the tree better. There is a tutorial about that on this page. Scroll down to the video about creating foliage pads. Fanning out some of the branches might also be a good idea, but difficult to advice in detail from a photo.
There is no Q&A on Zoom this week. Summer holidays make it difficult to gather enough people, and I will relax a bit too 🙂 If any questions need to be answered before, please just put them up. I will be there to answer at the forum or personally as well until we are Live again. Q&A Zoom meeting will be back end of August.
Ohh, that way around. Yes, you can defoliate most deciduous trees now with the right techniques for each species. Hornbeam, beech, Stewartia etc. But all with the rigth techniques, and they are different.
Hornbeam can be cut back to two or three leaves, or partly defoliated leaving the end leaf at each branch.On beech, you leave the end leaf at the tip of the branch, and the end leaf at weaker side branches, and remove all other interior leaves. Weak branches are left with more leaves back.
Stewartia must be done more carefully and a little later, in July. You can remove large leaves at the tips of the branches only. So do not leaf prune as much as you do on Japanese maples, trident maples or other trees.
I just found this information and as long as they stay in the garden it seem to be alright.
!”Cotoneaster. Many of the species of cotoneaster available in garden centres are highly invasive – some so much so that it is now illegal to plant them in the countryside or to allow them to ‘escape’ from your garden! If you’d like to attract birds to your garden with berries, better alternatives include: Hawthorn.”
https://www.rspb.org.uk › advice
Invasive Shrubs to be Aware of in Your Garden – The RSPB
